[Huicong Screen Printing Co., Ltd. reported] sweater printing is usually flat screen printing and cylinder screen printing two kinds of printing, the former is suitable for clothing piece printing, the latter is suitable for continuous printing. In sweater printing, A small number of cylinder screen printing, the majority of sweater products are used flat screen printing, in the flat screen printing and manual platen printing. sweater sweater screen printing according to the specific process, the main Can be divided into steam printing, paint printing, low temperature printing and embossed printing four categories, today this article focuses on the relief printing. People will see a kind of embossed cashmere sweater in the market, with the characteristics of embossed relief pattern, full texture, texture, bright colors, strong contrast under light, giving a visually striking three-dimensional pattern, feel creamy The unique appearance effect is deeply loved by the consumers. Many people do not understand why the embossed pattern appears on the sweater. This kind of embossing effect is neither weaving nor “burnt-out printingâ€. More is not "foam printing". How can the embossed pattern appear on the sweater? This also starts with the physical and chemical properties of cashmere. First, the cashmere structure In the wool fiber, there are sheep wool, goat wool, wool-free, etc. The cashmere is a fluff obtained from the goat wool. It has the characteristics of light, fine, soft, soft and slippery, etc. ". Cashmere is a slender solid cylinder, curled, fiber structure is divided into three layers, namely, scales, cortex and medullary layer. Cashmere is the biggest feature of cashmere sweaters, due to the presence of shrinkage also caused the fabric size instability (washed sweaters tend to become smaller). Embossing printing is the use of cashmere fiber surface scales shrinking principle And made into. Second, the mechanism of shrinking Under the action of moist heat and chemical reagents, animal hair fibers are repeatedly squeezed by external mechanical forces, and the fiber aggregates gradually shrink tightly and interpenetrate each other to entanglement and interlace the felt wool. This feature is known as the shrinkage of wool fibers. The fabric can be shrunk, the reason for this is very complicated. The mechanism by which the wool fiber is shrunk is generally due to the following reasons. The front has been observed under the microscope that there are many scales covering the surface of the cashmere fibers. The free ends of the scales point to the direction of the tip of the cashmere fibers. When a felting agent is present, the cashmere fibers are moistened and expand, causing the scales to open. At this time, a certain amount of external force is applied to the cashmere, and the cashmere starts to move, so that the wool fiber has directional friction. That is, the friction coefficient of the scale is small and the coefficient of the inverse friction is large. There exists a relationship between the reverse and the smooth. The coefficient difference (ie, the coefficient of friction of the inverse scale in the case of fiber friction is always greater than the coefficient of friction in the direction of the scale). Coupled with the environment in which the damp heat and chemical additives (condensers) are present, when the sweater is subjected to The repetitive kneading action of the mechanical external force creates a tendency of one-way movement toward the root end of the fiber. In addition, the excellent extensibility, elasticity, and space curl of the wool make the wool fiber easier to move, and thus the mutual inter-fibers Interspersed entanglement, resulting in interwoven felting, hair ends gradually exposed on the surface of the fabric, so that the fabric becomes excellent appearance, rich hand, soft texture, with good thermal effect. Practice has proved: sheep There are more scales than rough wool, so fine cashmere is better than thick wool. Wool is more than rabbit fur scales, so the wool is better than rabbit hair. In addition to "scales" and "elasticity "Besides, based on certain characteristics and experimental phenomena of wool, people also explained the mechanism of cashmere shrinking from different perspectives, such as "de-liberation theory," "curl theory," "strain-relaxation theory," but it can be used by everyone. The generally accepted main point is that the linear shrinkage of wool is determined by the directional friction effect and the high degree of tensile recovery. Both are indispensable. The former is called the brake factor and the latter is called the dynamic factor. Third, the embossed print design The embossed printing is also called embossing and finishing. The shrinking technology is a special finishing process for cashmere knitted garments. It is a unique process different from any other knitting industry. Therefore, the embossed printing is the organic combination of the printing process and the cashmere fabric finishing process. The design of the flower pattern is different from that of an ordinary print pattern. Generally, the design of the pattern design of the printing plant and the design of the printing process are completed in two stages of production, and even two separate departments carry out each other. Because the embossed printing contains the printing process, There are two parts of organic combination of the velvety process to produce excellent products. That is to say, the art designer must communicate with the process designer and work closely with each other, and the two parties must learn from each other so that a good pattern can be produced through a reasonable and advanced process. Good completion of sweater embossed printing task.Because the clothes before and after the shrinking must be reborn, such as size, density, appearance, feel and other changes, resulting in full texture of the clothing, texture, color, soft, feel creamy The full play of the physical characteristics of cashmere fiber, forming a unique appearance effect. For any tissue texture, chaos phenomenon will occur after the shrinking process. Therefore, the tissue lines commonly used in cashmere sweaters in the past may not be suitable for the technical requirements of shrinking cashmere sweaters. Therefore, it must be taken into account during sample design. After shrinking, the effect of appearance changes on clothing will be an important part of cashmere garment design. Embossed printing is mainly applied to wool sweaters that need to be plucked. It is the use of screen printing machines, according to fabric properties and Flower pattern features Plate making, color adjustment, proofing, color paste deployment and a series of activities will reflect the pattern on the garment. Fourth, embossed printing mechanism and technology Process: the production of a film a stretch of the net a photosensitive plate a development of a printing deployment (the above process is very familiar with the silk screen workers go to the machine) on the machine printing a drying steam steaming (or baking) a finishing One dyeing. The embossed print of the sweater is made with partial (fingerprint) shrinkage prevention. The rest of the parts are napped and the patterned part can not be plucked (because the anti-shrinkage agent is added to the screen printing paste) without pattern Partly because of the velvet and piled up, forming a rich suede, strong contrast under light, giving people a visually striking three-dimensional pattern, so that the printed pattern on the surface of the fabric rich convex feeling, this relief effect is not weaving out It is not the embossing effect formed by "burnt-out" or "foaming" printing. Here is the amount of anti-shrinking agent added to the printing paste. For this purpose, introduce some anti-shrinkage agent products Pulp selection: water-soluble anti-shrinking resin: synthappretbap, synthappretlkf titapret bap (i~46%o polyisocyanate bisulfite, British Bayer products), buntesalt bonte salt Based polypropylene oxide), uitratexesb urtratex (containing 35% polysiloxan emulsifier, Ciba-Gallard products), the United States produced hercosete57, dow-coming the company's dc-109 , There are some water-soluble and solvent-based resins, can be asked to the marketing office. Composition of printing paste: Synthappretbap (46%) 2.5% Sodium bicarbonate o.3% Low solid alginate (thickener) 1.0% Water 96.2% This section focuses on the purchase and preparation of thickeners. Here, sodium alginate is used as an example: The sodium alginate supplied by commercial products has a fluffy, powdery, husk-like shape with brown, yellow, green-brown colors, etc. Kinds of properties should be noted when preparing thickening pastes: 1. Sodium alginate is easily soluble in water, good gelatinization performance, can be expanded by adding warm water, so as to obtain a uniform sodium alginate paste. However, the water temperature can not exceed 60 °C, or the viscosity decreases. 2. The viscosity of bleached alginate is not as good as that of color. 3. The stability of the original paste is better with ph value of 5.8~11. If the value is lower than 5.8, it will precipitate alginic acid and it will not dissolve in water. PH value higher than 11 will condense, it is not resistant to strong acid and alkali, when meeting Conglomerate into blocks. 4. The paste is not resistant to heavy metal ions, such as the case of calcium, aluminum, iron, zinc, copper and other metal ions above the two solidification immediately dissolve in water and precipitated. In case of alcohol also frozen. Preparation method: Put the warm water into the bucket first, and add sodium hexametaphosphate (0.5-1%). Add the sodium alginate slowly into the warm water under constant stirring. Stir until it is uniform and no granular paste. Add water to it. The total amount, using alkali to adjust the ph value is 7 to 8 standby. Hexametaphosphate is a softener, it can complex water, calcium, magnesium and other metal ions in the paste, in order to prevent the precipitation of sodium alginate. Adding the appropriate amount (o.001~0.01%) of coating material in the above slurry can make the relief effect more obvious, but it should not be added in excessive quantity (overdose and color printing), and the embossed effect is more prominent in light-colored sweaters. The role of various additives in the formula: 1. Water-soluble resin: anti-shrinkage agent. 2. Raw alginate paste: The embossed printing paste should be selected from the original paste that does not react with the resin, and it is easy to wash away in the milling process. 3. Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda): water-soluble resin shrinkage {~jbap need to be baked under alkaline conditions, baking soda can make the anti-shrinking agent be alkaline, if the sweater's ph value is neutral or weak base When sex, can reduce the amount of baking soda. Because sodium bicarbonate will shrink the stability of anti-shrinkage paste, the general stability period is about 24h, it is best to add before the printing when mixing. Water-soluble resin shrink - ~jbap has a certain penetration capacity, if the printed pulp can not fully penetrate the back of the sweater, you need to add non-ionic permeability. Steam temperature is 100 °C ~ 110 °C, time is 15rain. If baked, the temperature is 110 °C ~ 120 °C, time is 10min. V. Milling processing As the shrinking is a post-processing process of wool fabrics, it is not a printing process. Here is a brief introduction. According to the difference in the use of shrinkage agents, it can be divided into alkaline shrinking, acid milling, neutral shrinking, soap doubling, and alkali after Acid shrinking velvet and other methods. Factors affecting woollen sweaters and velvets include: felting agent, bath ratio, temperature, ph value, mechanical force and time. When the ph value is 4 to 8, the velvety and gentle, worsted using neutral velvet, woollen acid or alkaline velvet can be used, ph value of 2 to 3, the most easy to velvet, fast and more. High temperature Milling, the temperature shrinks slowly. Worsted with 40 °C, woolen alkali shrinkage is 35 °C ~ 45 °C, acid shrink is 50 °C. The pressure size, the amount of water can be selected according to different fabrics, in order to achieve the desired effect. The following describes two methods for shrinking for reference: (I) Detergent Milling Method The process flow is: 1. Cashmere sweater soaked, water temperature 35 °C ~ 40 °C, bath ratio 1:20 ~ 1:30, soaking time 1o ~ 20min. Drying wool sweater is more difficult, between the soaked sweater fiber The lubricity makes it easy to produce relative motion, the wool fibers are wet and expand, and the scales are open, which is conducive to the mutual interlacing of the fibers. The wet fibers have good extensibility and elasticity and can easily cause the directional friction effect of the fibers. 2. Milling, neutral detergent 0.5% ~ 1.5%, PH value 7 ~ 7.5, shrinkage time is 10-30min, according to the type of product is determined. Mechanical external force: If the external force is not added when shrinking, between the fibers are not When relative movement occurs, the wool fibers will not be intertwined, and the external force should be evenly distributed when shrinking. 3. Cleaning, need to be cleaned 2 times, 2-3min/time. 4. Drying, the temperature is 85 °C ~ 90 °C, time is 20-25min. (B) Organic Solvent Milling The process is as follows: Sweater cleaning (temperature 25°C～30°C), a velveteen (auxiliary tetrachloroethylene: time 5～1omin), drying (temperature 85°C～90°C, time 15-20min) It is sealed. Sixth, relief printing matters needing attention 1. The sweater is placed on a sweater-shaped hanger made of stainless steel wire. The length and width of the hanger is slightly larger than the sweater, which is about 10% to 15%. It is easy to penetrate the printing paste. After printing, it is blown dry, and the printing is dry and then baked. 2. Washing oil is to make the sweater oil content is not higher than 0.5%, to ensure that the sweater is fully absorbed in the anti-shrinkage resin, in the pre-baking or baking, the resin cross-linked film integrity, will not affect the embossed effect. 3. The pure wool fabrics of worsted and woolen fabrics can be embossed and printed to obtain a special relief three-dimensional effect. The thin-tissue pure wool woven fabric has the best effect. For low-twist coarse textiles and gabardine etc. Things should not be used in this process. 4. The choice of embossed printing paste, such as sodium alginate, should be selected such that the paste does not react with the synthappret bap resin and is easily washed away in the velveteen process. 5. The points of textile printing plate making: As textiles have a large number of printings and require high printing plate resistance, the photosensitive plastic must be fully exposed (photosynthesis) to enhance the degree of printing resistance. If nylon is used, The price of the screen is cheap, the quantity of the printing is large, the tension of the screen will be reduced, and it is not necessary to carry out the film recovery. If the number of the printing is small, the solvent-based photosensitive adhesive should be used when making the plate, which can be carried out after printing. Film stripping recovery screen. 6. Selection of scraper in printing: For different patterns, the type of scraper used and the cross-section of the knife edge are different. The round mouth scraper with low hardness, the large knife edge area, the amount of slurry for printing, the printing effect is good, and is most suitable for Montreal pattern; high hardness scraper, small knife area, less slurry, suitable for point, line fine pattern, clear edge pattern after printing. Our main products are all kinds of knitting products, the product category is also very wide, there are Tank, T-shirts, hoodies, coats, pants, shorts, shirts and so on, and we also do woven clothing, such as shirts, jackets, coats and so on.
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Introduction to Special Printing Knowledge of Knitted Cashmere Garments
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